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1889 Enoteca

Mauve banquettes provide a ringside seat to watch the excitement at the bar as wine lovers revel in the remarkable Italian-driven list. It can’t be easy for the kitchen to shine, given the stiff vinous competition, but fortunately it rises to the task. Simple menu descriptions sometimes underplay the artful balance of flavours, so do let the knowledgeable wait-staff strut their stuff – it’s one of the pleasures of dining here. The focus is on classics done well: hearty entrées of bucatini amatriciana in a rich and satisfying sauce, and tagliatelle with prawns that can hold their own against garlic and chilli. A main course of lamb cutlets on shaved pecorino with artichokes, broad beans and mint is unusual but successful. Warm timbers, vintage posters and soft lighting create a beguiling ambience that makes it tempting to linger. Visit mid-week when the two-sittings policy is waived so you can linger longer.