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Absynthe

The ground floor of the Q1 skyscraper, a block back from the surf, hardly seems the place for an illicit thrill, but once you delve into the creative menu and extraordinary wine list in this modern space, Absynthe’s intoxicating effects become clear. Meyjitte Boughenout earned two Michelin stars back in Europe with the very same sort of dishes that distinguish the menu here. Pairings such as curry-crusted Moreton Bay bugs, or potato gnocchi with foie gras and confit pineapple in Port, might require diners to take a small leap of faith, but the odds here are good. There’s nothing to lose, either, with the more conservative likes of braised oxtail with celeriac purée and mushroom ravioli, or slow-cooked snapper with lobster bisque. Desserts demand attention – the passionfruit soufflé, served with yoghurt ice-cream, is as light as the foam on the nearby breakers. A standard-setter for regional dining.