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Absynthe

The skyscraper address can be subtly misleading: this thoroughly modern restaurant sits on Q1’s ground floor, so the best views are in fact inside the room, on its black unclothed tables, and not out. Steamed prawn meat formed into pockets filled with cabbage and set in a subtly flavoured broth makes for a light start. Mousselinefilled confit rabbit leg doesn’t quite melt in the mouth but the rustic braised cannellini beans it sits on are appealing (even if there’s scant sign of the promised morels). Lightly smoked duck breast with pumpkin cannelloni picks things up again. It’s delivered by sweet, friendly waiters, though at such prices as these, more informed service is essential, especially where wine is concerned. Crème brûlée with caramelised mango is characteristic of surprisingly mundane desserts. It’s time Absythne lifted its game to match its prices.