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Anise

The streets of the nation’s capital are quiet at night. Except for Fridays on West Row – the Melbourne Building is pumping. It’s laced with bars, cafés and restaurants – among them, the stylish Anise. You may spot a parliamentarian sitting at one of the starched linen-clothed tables in this smart restaurant, perhaps enjoying a wine from the award-winning list. It’s always nice to see one offal item on a menu and pan-fried calf’s liver on grilled polenta with caramelised onion is a good way to begin your meal. Ceviche of Hiramasa kingfish with Sichuan pepper and capers is fresh and transcontinental; a main of caramelised pork belly comes with a pork sausage just like the ones you’ll find in northern Thailand. Other mains are a little heavy on the jus, but presentation is careful. As far as desserts go, crème brûlée may be a bit of a cliché but when it’s done well it’s good. It’s done well here, at this star, Anise.