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Aria Brisbane

With views of the river and Story Bridge, this is undoubtedly a dining room with true special-night-out appeal, and the kitchen and floor team work hard to maintain the magic. Pork belly is generous in crunch and crackle, attaining a classical elegance with its accompaniment of figs, spiced walnuts and apple. Lamb – rare-roast rack and honeyglazed belly – is doused with lavender jus, but it’s perfectly delicate and shows no signs of floral heavy-handedness, and, with its chickpea chips and eggplant batons, is a picture of harmony. Banoffee pie is another of the menu’s many high points, arriving deconstructed with crumbled base, brûléed banana and a quenelle of deep, dark caramel. And then there’s a wine list of such scope and ambition that it’s an attraction in itself. High notes such as these don’t come cheap, but Aria sustains them admirably.