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Aria

Aria has it all. Stellar service. A wine list to lose yourself in, and gun sommeliers to help you find your way back. A widescreen vista taking in bridge, harbour and opera house. Oh, and food. It might not be as dgy as other restaurants charging $50-plus for its main courses, but the kitchen has lifted its sights of late. A raviolo of gently bitter rapa and ricotta with a liquid egg yolk centre and a garnish of crisp fried chicken wing nuggets is as satisfying as it is unexpected. The chicken which follows it, plated with a laser-cut cube of macaroni cheese, mushrooms and turnips, is slightly odd in that it’s breast, where thigh or a Maryland would surely offer more flavour, but even so, it’s crisp and juicy in all the right places. Spicy-hot ginger beer sorbet, meanwhile, makes a busy arrangement of caramel-poached apple, cherry macaron and gingerbread a dessert to remember. Encore!