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Attica

Attica’s new look, all dark colours and spot illumination, has given its dining room a much-needed dose of drama. It’s an infinitely more fitting backdrop for Ben Shewry’s intricate, quirky and often dazzling food that, thanks to well-versed waiters, arrives with theatrical accounts of how each dish in the five- to eight-course tasting menu came about. Perennials such as snow crab meat under a mop of freeze-dried horseradish with salmon roe granita or the gorgeously simple smoky Virginia Rose potato cooked in soil and served with mojama share space with more recent arrivals, such as glazed marron tails with egg yolk and garlic shoots or a lovely whimsical dessert of brown sugar-dusted strawberries sinking into cream and strawberry purée. There’s kitchen wizardry aplenty, but also solid technique that, despite the experimentation, makes this food both satisfying and fun..