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Attica

A former bank in little-known Ripponlea may not be a likely source of excited food noise but the buzz about Attica keeps building. The modestly decorated dining room – all earthy tones and comfortably conservative furniture – could have you wondering if you’re in the right place. Then Ben Shewry’s clever, playful, artfully presented food makes an appearance. Two perfect quail breasts, golden brown and juicy, might be teamed with almond custard; hapuku, poached in a bag with mussel butter, may share a plate with curls of grilled cuttlefish. Skilled, meticulous technique is seen in slow-cooked shoulder of lamb, shredded and reconstituted in a spice-crusted ‘brick’, and in ‘a selection of childhood memories’: a dessert of adult versions of fairy floss, spiders, Roll-Ups, jubes and Pop Rocks. Add switched-on service and a smart, menu-driven wine list and you’ll understand why the buzz is so audible.