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Aubergine

Aubergine has never been better. Chef Ben Willis, sommelier Peter Bell and their compatriots in the kitchen and working the floor know their business, and keep things humming along smoothly. On the menu, meanwhile, top-grade ingredients such as Cape Grim beef get top billing, yet even the more prosaic likes of garlic in a savoury custard with goat’s cheese, mushrooms and celeriac give star turns. The addition of gutsy ribs gives lamb loin with polenta and roasted Jerusalem artichokes a real lift – as does a full-bore side of Brussels sprouts with bacon. The team’s knack for pairing simpático flavours and textures in unexpected ways is apparent in a square of baked, pressed quince with apple, goat’s curd mousse and an oat biscuit. If there’s anything odd about finding food and wine this polished in the suburbs, no one here seems to care. Bravura stuff.