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Auge

Attention to detail makes this dark, handsome restaurant the benchmark Italian in Adelaide. It starts with immaculate service, the best in town, and continues with little touches such as a reading light clipped to the wine list. Then there’s sommelier James Erskine’s infectious enthusiasm for a cellar that stars the best Italian imports and their local cousins. All a splendid backdrop to show the craft of James Brinklow, whose understanding of this cuisine is never overshadowed by his use of foams and other trickery. Fresh pasta features in sublime dishes such as saffron linguine with finely diced mussels and ocean jacket cheeks. A roll of shredded rabbit meat is studded with green olives and pistachio on a puddle of creamy semolina, a dab of pistachio foam giving a fleeting breath of flavour. Finish with one of six cheeses or the refreshing tartness of quince and apple terrine.