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Auge

A makeover with plush lounges and an extended bar has transformed Auge’s foyer into a busy hub of casual drinking and snacking, without intruding on the adjacent dining room’s neat elegance. Waiters guide diners through a menu that caters as easily for shared plates as conventional à la carte. Generous appetisers include a tasting plate of olive oil-poached tuna, marinated sardines and pickled white anchovies. Delicate flavour combinations and pretty presentation shine in venison carpaccio dotted with specks of walnut, blueberries, goat’s curd and green beans. Quail dressed neatly in pancetta sits on roast shallot tart, robust beetroot compote and cotechino. Desserts are fun, with tiramisù deconstructed so that coffee, mascarpone and chocolate flavours can be mixed and matched. The wine list extensively explores Italian regions, with good selections by the glass.