Wine to try
Spy Valley Pinot Gris, Marlborough, A$35
Swordfish is a dense, deep-water fish with a tendency to dry out if it is not carefully cooked. The sweetness of the accompanying roasted capsicum requires a wine with both depth and richness. A light red could work, but here the weight, texture and intensity of good pinot gris is perfect (not a lean, tight, Italianate pinot grigio style but rather the full, rich Alsace style). There are a number of Australian pinot gris that fit that mould – for example, Scorpo, Red Claw and Pipers Brook, but it’s the New Zealanders who are showing us how to make the variety with extra depth, power and concentration. The folk at Spy Valley use partial barrel fermentation, some malolactic influences and leave a touch of residual sugar to build weight and add complexity to this delicious (food-friendly) white wine.