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Bells at Killcare

A pebbled drive. Pavers and playing fountains. A basket full of croquet mallets and cushioned wicker chairs on the deck. Doors open into a large room, banquettes, French windows, chandeliers, clothed tables, large mirrors. Olives and crispbread kick things off, then you’re into familiar Steve Manfredi territory with the seafood and vegetable platter: winning chicory and parmesan frittata, crab fritters, grilled scallop skewers, roast beets, octopus salad, pickled vegies. Wide ribbons of house-made pasta in one encounter, though, have little of the trademark Manfredi elasticity and suppleness, and a braised rabbit sauce doesn’t save them. Tortelloni in a veal and chicken broth is simple, nourishing and exactly as it should be. Service is more all-smiles than switched-on. Gelati and sorbetti in a huge oh yeah-sized parfait glass – chocolate, mango, plum and more – equal smiles all round.