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Bentley Restaurant & Bar

Call it a meeting of minds. Between Nick Hildebrandt’s wilful, envelope-pushing wine list and Brent Savage’s ideas-rich cuisine du temps, there’s creative energy to power two ordinary restaurants. Bentley, though, is far from ordinary. This refitted pub is louder than your average two-star. But there’s no question of its footing when it comes to the informed service or tapas menu offering everything from liquid mushrooms on toast to jamón Ibérico by the slice. Entrées like caramelised pork cheek with beetroot and smoked salmon ravioli and salmon roe are always cooked expertly, even if the audacious combinations don’t connect with every palate. But when they score a hit, as with the cod sauced with an emulsion made with jamón, chives and juices from the bag it’s cooked in, they’re the equal of the best in town. Desserts are wilder still, though the simpler offerings sometimes satisfy most. A must.