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Bentley Restaurant & Bar

If food twisted and twirled across the plate into a variety of alien textures (many of them sticky or gummy) with the latest in progressive cooking techniques isn’t your cuppa, think twice. Bentley isn’t for everyone. If you reach for the familiar when you’re ordering wine, the scope and bent of the list might not comfort you. But if it’s stimulation you court when you dine, and thrills you seek in the glass, this is the one to beat. The likes of samphire, lamb sweetbreads and Balmain bug with a surprise hit of coconut, or poached tuna, tangy with jamón sauce and contrasted with the textures of kohlrabi and sausage crumbs, are matched at every turn with often outré but always appropriate suggestions from a battery of smart, wine-savvy staff led by Nick Hildebrandt, the sommelier’s sommelier. An elegant 2010 fit-out has left Bentley riding more smoothly than ever.