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Berowra Waters Inn

To arrive by water or by air? That’s about the only question you have to answer once you’ve set Berowra in your sights. A seaplane is unbeatable, of course, but parking the car on the other side of the river and taking the short jaunt across the Hawkesbury to the restaurant’s cliffside location on its launch is pretty magical, nonetheless. Once you’re comfortably seated by the dapper waiters and watered from the fine cellar, you surrender to a surprise menu that thrills through the perfection of its execution rather than the audacity of its conception: half moons of melting pasta wrapped around ricotta and spinach, made luxe with buttery chanterelles and truffle, say, or the cascading flavours of barramundi, ham, calamari and olive. Rhum baba teamed with roast pear and caramel mousse sweetly concludes an adventure that’s as much holiday as meal.