NOTE ON PRICES
Wine producers and their distributors are asked to supply the recommended retail price for each wine tasted. Where applicable, we run recommended retail prices for both Australia and New Zealand. Prices may vary depending on the outlet. If a wine is not distributed in one or other of the countries, the local price will not be given. However, it may be possible to order through an overseas distributor.
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Best Buy Wines (June/July 2008): $15 and under
The Gourmet Traveller WINE panel – Max Allen, Peter Bourne, Bob Campbell MW, Peter Forrestal, Huon Hooke and Jeremy Oliver – recommend great-value wines from home and further afield.
2005 Bleasdale Malbec, Langhorne Creek, A$14/NZ$20
Malbec is not the easiest red grape in the world to grow. It’s prone to inconsistent cropping – huge quantities of grapes one year, scarcely a bunch the next – and is erratic in its ripening. This could explain why more is not grown in Australia. When it’s good, it can produce quite delicious red wine. This terrific-value example has all the variety’s trademark bold, black bramble fruit, violet aromas and plush, fleshy texture. A couple of years in the cellar may even see some interesting spice and earth flavours emerge. MA
2007 Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon, South-eastern Australia, A$10/NZ$12
Following its stellar performance in the US, Yellow Tail has done well on the domestic market. I saw the state-of-the-art Casella winery in Griffith in 1998 and returned 10 years later to endless stretches of winery buildings. Yellow Tail may be a big brand, but its best wines are great quaffers. The 2007 cabernet is soft, round and juicy, with macerated dark cherry flavours and a gentle finish. I’m also impressed by the 2005 Yellow Tail The Reserve Shiraz and the 2007 merlot. PF
2006 De Bortoli Sero Shiraz Tempranillo, King Valley, A$15
Wow. Every now and then a wine happens along that hits the vinous mark but not the wallet. This is one of those all too rare treats. Sero is a Latin word meaning to blend or join together, and this delivers on that promise: spicy shiraz flavours merge seamlessly with the precision and focus of the tempranillo component. A portion of the fruit comes from cane-cut vines and has a deliberate, raisined fruit flavour that adds a positive and distinct savoury character to this very slurpable red. Perfect with pork and fennel sausages. PB
2006 Wyndham Estate Bin 222 Chardonnay, South-eastern Australia, A$15
The cheaper chardonnays of the Orlando Wyndham group have jumped up a few pegs in quality lately, and this is a shining example. It is a wholly remarkable wine at the price, and often subject to discounting. Fruit-driven, yet with some underlying complexities to keep you entertained, it is clean and citrusy to sniff, while the palate has unexpected finesse and pleasing harmony. This wine would confound a lot of tasters if you served it blind and asked them what it cost. HH
2007 Twin Islands Chardonnay, Marlborough, A$20/NZ$15
The quality and price of chardonnay has risen steadily in recent years. Twin Islands Chardonnay has never been better and yet the price has remained stable at about NZ$15. Made from grapes harvested from three Wairau Valley vineyards, a small proportion of the wine is barrel-fermented and 100 per cent is allowed to mature on yeast lees. It’s a tangy wine with fresh white peach and citrus flavours. This is a pretty, fruit-focused chardonnay that hasn’t been sweetened in the name of commercialism. BC
2006 Angove’s Red Belly Black Shiraz, South Australia, A$14
A measured, balanced, easy-drinking South Australian shiraz with substance and structure. It’s slightly old-fashioned, with nuances of mint, eucalyptus and leather beneath its slightly jammy expression of raspberry, blackberry and dark plum. Smooth and vibrant, its silky and approachable palate is underpinned by a fine-grained cut of pliant tannins, finishing with nuances of molasses and bitumen. It’s a thoroughly modern red, with emphasis on fruit, with oak and tannins comfortably in support. JO