NOTE ON PRICES
Wine producers and their distributors are asked to supply the recommended retail price for each wine tasted. Where applicable, we run recommended retail prices for both Australia and New Zealand. Prices may vary depending on the outlet. If a wine is not distributed in one or other of the countries, the local price will not be given. However, it may be possible to order through an overseas distributor.
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Best Buy Wines (June/July 2008): $30 and under
The Gourmet Traveller WINE panel – Max Allen, Peter Bourne, Bob Campbell MW, Peter Forrestal, Huon Hooke and Jeremy Oliver – recommend great-value wines from home and further afield.
2007 Ngeringa JE Rosé, Adelaide Hills, A$28
Erinn and Janet Klein’s certified biodynamic Ngeringa vineyard near Mount Barker at the southern end of the Adelaide Hills is one of South Australia’s most exciting new labels. Last year’s release of a stunning 2005 shiraz has been followed up by this brilliant rosé. Made with juice from shiraz and a touch of viognier, it has an intense perfume of wild strawberry and spice, leading onto a relatively full-bodied, rich mouthful of juiciness, finishing long, dry and spicy. This is pink wine for grown-ups. MA
2004 Tim Adams Cabernet, Clare Valley, A$26
Clare Valley shiraz tends to get more attention than cabernet, even here at Tim Adams, where his single-vineyard Aberfeldy Shiraz, from vines planted in 1904, is the flagship wine. Although this cabernet sauvignon doesn’t have the improbable depth of flavour of The Aberfeldy, it’s a great drink: soft, round and succulent with a velvety, almost fleshy texture, concentrated redcurrant and cassis flavours, well-integrated oak and balanced tannins. This wine has power with finesse. PF
2003 Peter Lehmann The Mudflat Shiraz Muscadelle, Barossa Valley, A$28/NZ$34
Viognier was unheard of in the 1950s when a young winemaker at Saltrams, Peter Lehmann, began co-fermenting a small proportion of (white) muscadelle grapes with ripe shiraz to create a harmonious, velvety red. Lehmann continues the tradition with this seductive, rich, sweet-fruited shiraz – the 8 per cent muscadelle giving all the attributes of viognier without the overly sweet apricot perfumes of the recent Rhône interloper. Mudflat? Len Evans’ nickname for Lehmann. PB
2006 Paringa Estate Peninsula Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, A$25
The “Peninsula” moniker signifies bought-in grapes, and sets this entry-level pinot apart from the Estate and Reserve wines, which are made from the Paringa Estate vines. It’s an approachable, charming pinot that certainly achieves its maker’s aims of drinking well young. It’s a fruit bomb: rich, soft and opulent in the mouth, not terribly subtle perhaps but loaded with flavour. There are black cherry and slightly animal overtones, and plenty of varietal character. HH
2007 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Noble Viognier, Hawkes Bay, NZ$30 (375ml)
Viognier ripens early, so Trinity Hill nets off the vineyard and hopes the variety will hold together until some of it can be co-fermented with its later-ripening syrah. When the fruit is picked, any botrytis-affected bunches are put aside for this sticky. It’s an outstanding dessert wine with luscious, ripe fruit flavours interwoven with very pure, honeyed botrytis. The effect is totally seductive. Sweet, but the residual sugar is beautifully balanced by fine acidity. BC
2007 Mistletoe Reserve Semillon, Hunter Valley, A$22
A modern impression of a timeless classic, this long, tightly focused and finely sculpted semillon presents a pristine and juicy expression of melon, lemon and guava-like flavour backed by a chalky lick of minerality. It’s delicate and dusty, with a particularly floral bouquet and a layered, savoury palate that culminates in a tangy, dry and briny finish. Stupendous value! Drink 2015-2019. JO