2005 Domaine du Vieux Chêne Cuvée des Capucines Côtes du Rhône, Rhône Valley (France), A$22
This grenache comes from a Côtes du Rhône vineyard that has been certified organic for a decade. It smells and tastes unmistakably of where it’s from: earthy aromas of squashed baked plum and sticks and leaves lead onto a lovely, spicy mouthful of medium-bodied red wine, with pretty, juicy red fruit and some powdery, fine-grained tannins. Exactly the kind of wine you want to discover being poured by the glass in some out-of-the-way bistro in Paris or Lyons.  MA

2005 Henry Fessy Domaine des 40 Ecus Beaujolais-Villages (France), A$16
Although the general quality of wine from Beaujolais has a long way to go to regain the status that it once enjoyed, there has been a revival of interest in it in Australia due to the importation of some of the region’s finest producers. This is a decent Beaujolais-Villages that sells for a modest price and so makes an excellent entry-level example of the appellation: silky-smooth, rich, ripe raspberry and strawberry flavours with pleasing vibrance and drinkability.  PF

2005 Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône, Rhône Valley (France), A$25
The Perrin brothers produce one of the Châteuneuf-du-Pape region’s best wines under their Beaucastel label. Their Reserve Côtes du Rhône is sourced from their Grand Prebois and Vinsobres vineyards, with additional fruit from associated long-term growers. It’s a 60 per cent grenache blend with sweet, juicy raspberry fruit flavours, typical of low-yielding grenache, supported by spicy shiraz and dense, earthy mourvèdre in equal proportions. The subtle (older) oak influences are well in the background. PB

2006 Casa Defra Pinot Grigio della Venezie, Veneto (Italy), A$22
Good northern Italian pinot grigio is a style many winemakers in other countries aspire to, but most fall well short of the target. This one combines a nicely overt fruitiness with the delicacy and immediate quaffability that we expect of the style. Scented with honeydew melon and stone fruit, the wine has a degree of richness and is intense but soft in the mouth. A clean, beautifully made drop that glides easily across the palate.  HH

2006 Saint Cosme Les Deux Albion Côtes du Rhône, Rhône Valley (France), NZ$25
This is the best Côtes du Rhône I’ve tasted from the excellent 2006 vintage. It’s a blend of syrah (40 per cent), grenache (30 per cent) and 10 per cent each of mourvèdre, carignan and clairette. Intensity of colour and flavour are assisted by “old vine” grenache, although I have been unable to establish exact vine age. It’s an inky Rhône red with bright, fruity flavours and firm tannins. A rich red with layers of red fruit, spice, chocolate and leather.  BC

2007 Loosen Dr L Riesling, Mosel (Germany), A$22
Although Australian makers are still refining their notions of slightly sweet but refreshing and mineral young riesling, the Loosen family is just one of countless Mosel makers to have nailed the concept ages ago. Here it is a lavender- and rose petal-scented, powdery and chalky wine, with piercing flavours of lime, pear and apple underpinned by a schist-like texture and wrapped in taut, refreshing, lemony acids. It’s delightfully balanced and brightly lit, finishing with classic regional minerality.  JO