Best Buy Wines (February/March 2012)

 

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$15 and under
2009 Westend Estate Calabria Aglianico, Riverina, A$15
What a little Italian-Aussie battler this exceptional-value Riverina red is turning out to be. The 2008 vintage walked away with the Best Red trophy at the 2010 Alternative Varieties Wine Show in Mildura, and now the 2009 has won a gold at the 2011 show. It’s a cracker: complex, gutsy aromas of dark and dusty black fruit, leading onto a medium-bodied mouthful of salsicce-friendly juiciness framed by grippy tannins. All for $15 a bottle. Hopefully it’ll inspire more local winemakers to plant aglianico. MA

2011 Deep Woods Ivory Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, A$15
Since its takeover by the Fogarty Group in 2005, Deep Woods has thrived and the Ivory blend has become fresher, more vibrant. Under winemaker Julian Langworthy, who impressed at Wynns and Knappstein, Deep Woods continues to excel. It is situated in Margaret River’s northern reaches close to the town of Dunsborough. The 2011 Ivory is clean and lively with intense sugar snap-pea flavours, a green-bean edge, and refreshing acidity to finish. PF

2009 Longview Red Bucket Shiraz Cabernet, Adelaide Hills, A$15
Sitting on an exposed, south-eastern ridge of the Mount Lofty Ranges, the Longview vineyard boasts panoramic views to the Southern Ocean. From the first vintage, in 2001, the wines have been showered with a profusion of medals, trophies and awards. This entry-level red is a classic Australian blend of two-thirds shiraz, one-third cab sav, with intense aromas of ripe plum and blackcurrant fruits, and a whiff of white pepper spice. Its rich, juicy fruit flavours would welcome a decent meat pie with a good splodge of tomato sauce. PB

2011 Yalumba Y Series Vermentino, Riverland, A$15/NZ$15
If you’re looking for consistent, good-value red and white wines at this price-level, Yalumba’s Y Series is hard to go past. This one, from a little-known (in Australia) southern Italian grape, is a fresh, fruity everyday white wine and excellent quality at the price. The aroma is youthfully yeasty and herbal; the palate is soft and light with a dab of sweetness, all in balance with the whole. The overall impression is good and I found myself demolishing a couple of glasses as an aperitif. HH

2011 Alpine Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, A$14/NZ$15
Alpine Valley is a recently developed extension to Marlborough’s Wairau Valley. Alpine Valley is also the second label of Tiki Wines, a new and promising wine producer with three vineyards in an area they claim has the highest altitude in the Wairau Valley, and among the highest range of diurnal temperatures leading to greater intensity of flavours. A pure, tangy sauvignon blanc with green capsicum, gooseberry and mineral flavours, plus a contrast of sweetness and acidity that gives the wine a racy intensity. BC

2011 Houghton White Classic, Swan Valley, A$15
A lightly herbal, almost grassy white blend whose spicy, slightly musky bouquet of passionfruit, gooseberry and tropical aromas precedes a long, silky-smooth palate sumptuously and brightly lit with juicy fruit. Wrapped in lively acids, it extends well towards a clean, vivacious finish. Quite remarkable quality from a label that history tells us we ought to trust more. JO

$20 and under
2010 Juniper Crossing Tempranillo, Western Australia, A$20
Winemakers in WA have – with some notable exceptions – been a little slower to leap onto the alternative grape variety bandwagon than their eastern states counterparts, but they’re clearly making up for lost time: this won the Best Spanish trophy at the Alternative Varieties Wine Show in Mildura in 2011, the second year in a row for a WA tempranillo. It’s a beautiful, dense, generous example of the grape, too, with abundant cola and black cherry flavours and supple tannins. MA

2009 Yellowglen Pinot Noir Chardonnay, Grampians, A$13
Interestingly, one-third of the glasses drunk by women are fizz, and Yellowglen has 20 per cent of the Australian market. Much of this is the bright, youthful Yellow, a pleasant uncomplicated quaffer. For occasions when you need more serious fizz, the 2009 Yellowglen Pinot Noir Chardonnay is a well-priced option. It has toasty, briochey, biscuity aromatics, is soft, round and creamy in the mid-palate with lively, even zingy natural acidity and some complex mineral notes to finish. Not just for women! PF

2010 Hay Shed Hill Shiraz Tempranillo, Margaret River, A$20
Hay Shed Hill sat way under the radar until long-time Howard Park winemaker Michael Kerrigan took control of both its vineyards and daily management in 2006. Kerrigan is an innovative winemaker, adding 14 per cent tempranillo to a core of old-vine shiraz from the original Wilyabrup vineyards. Sweet, fleshy aromas of ripe Damson plums, black cherry and red licorice lead to a dense savoury palate with some dusky spice to add interest. This is an easy-drinking red that would be perfect with pork and fennel sausages. PB

2008 Biscay Wines John Hongell Grenache Shiraz, Barossa Valley, A$20
For me, this was one of the great-value discoveries of late 2011. Made from the fruit of old vines by a family with a distinguished history in Barossa wine, it is starting to show some positive development from bottle-age and is quite complex. The bouquet suggests roasted meats and fruitcake, licorice and charcuterie, even a hint of crushed ants. Super-ripe and luxurious, it’s concentrated and has genuine old-vine depth and generosity. It will drink well for at least another six years. HH

2011 Woollaston Pinot Noir Rosé, Nelson, NZ$19
This rosé is, unusually, made from grapes specifically targeted for the production of rosé rather than from juice that has been drained off pinot noir grapes to increase the colour and intensity of the red wine. It is made from three clones of pinot noir grown on a north-facing slope in Nelson’s Moutere clay-bound gravels. The wine has greater concentration than its second label, Tussock. This is a stylish, robust rosé with strong cherry, plum and
floral flavours. BC

2010 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz, Coonawarra, A$20/NZ$23
Remarkable for its price, this classically medium-bodied Coonawarra shiraz has a heady, musky bouquet whose vibrant, peppery aromas of cassis, dark plum and berries knit tightly with fresh, faintly charry mocha-like oak. It’s velvet smooth, long and elegant, with a charmingly supple presence of spicy fruit, gentle tannins and racy acids, finishing with genuine persistence and style. We are indeed the lucky country. JO

$30 and under
2011 Scott Fiano, Adelaide Hills, A$26
This wine makes so much sense. In its hot southern Italian homeland of Campania, the fiano grape thrives in slightly cooler, hillside vineyards inland from the coast – country that is not totally unlike the Adelaide Hills. This example, from winemaker Sam Scott, hits the varietal characters of fiano spot-on: spicy, floral aromas of jasmine and ginger lead on to a rich and textural, grape-pulpy palate that finishes crisp, dry and clean. Very exciting wine. MA

2009 Lake Breeze Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek, A$24
Instead of using the format of a regional show, the winemakers at Langhorne Creek present an annual Showcase of their finest following independent judging of the wines. Full-bodied reds with plush texture dominate – cabernets, shiraz, red blends. Greg Follett has been making some stunning wines in recent years, none better than this well-priced Champion Wine of the Showcase: intense blackcurrant jube, licorice and chocolate flavours, lush, velvety texture; classically structured, generous and approachable. PF

2011 Eldridge Estate PTG, Mornington Peninsula, A$25
While pinot noir is king in Burgundy, it wasn’t always so, with gamay widely planted in the 14th century. As a hangover, the everyday Burgundian beverage is the blend of gamay and pinot noir, known as passe-tout-grains. David Lloyd makes a dangerously drinkable gamay but with young-vine pinot noir fruit available, he has emulated the passetoutgrains style, hence PTG. It’s a fresh and vital red with soft redcurrant flavours and a refreshing acidity, which cries out for lightly spiced food. PB

2009 Mr Riggs Montepulciano d’Adelaide Hills, Adelaide Hills, A$25
Ben Riggs has tried his hand at many grape varieties; this is just one more – and it’s fairly obscure in Australia. It hails from Abruzzo on the Adriatic side of central Italy. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo becomes Montepulciano d’Adelaide Hills. Deep red-purple, it smells of walnut, dried bayleaf, dark-plum and a hint of funk. In the mouth it’s rich and lush in fruit flavour – juicy and lively – with freshness and charm, big structure but also balance. The tannins are persuasive but smooth and ripe-tasting. The finish is long. HH

2011 Craggy Range Avery Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, A$30/NZ$21
Lemon grass, lime, wet stones and green nectarine flavours. Quite intense, pure flavours supported by tangy acidity that helps promote a lengthy finish. There is also a subtle, nutty lees influence adding extra character. It’s a classy wine that seems to develop even greater intensity and complexity after a moderate amount of aeration. Decanting will certainly make this powerful sauvignon blanc more accessible. BC

2010 Atlas Riesling, Clare Valley, A$27
Taut and focused, this long, balanced and penetrating riesling reveals a pure, floral bouquet of apple, pear and lime juice underpinned by chalky nuances. It’s trim, lean and energetic, with a pulpy presence of crystal-clear fruits building towards a crescendo of citrus and white peach flavour punctuated by a clean acidity. Another classy and balanced release from this emerging maker. JO

Imports $25 and under
2010 Mandoleto Catarratto, Sicily (Italy), A$13
Sicily is home to some unusual and intensely flavoured grapes perfectly suited to the hot, volcanic, granite-sandy landscape. The catarratto grape is planted on the western coast, and produces light, dry, gently fruity whites. This example is ridiculously good value: as well as a sea-spray-fresh burst of lemon-pith zestiness, there’s some weight on the tongue and even a touch of pleasant grippiness. Try it with a traditional Sicilian dish such as couscous topped with grilled seafood. MA

2009 Prunotto Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont (Italy), A$25
This is an excellent follow-up to the delicious 2008: a barbera from a patchwork of villages close to Alba (including Barolo and Barbaresco) made by the Antinori family from 50 hectares of vineyards. It was another very good vintage in Piedmont. The 2009 Barbera d’Alba has attractive fruity aromatics that are fresh and lively; powerful concentrated sour cherry flavours with some savoury mushroom notes, balanced ripe tannins and a pleasing approachability. PF

2008 Borges Quinta da Soalheira, Douro (Portugal), A$19
Portugal is emerging from its fortified past with a swath of brilliant red wines capturing international attention. The Douro River is heartland of great Port but here the traditional Port variety, touriga, is blended with tempranillo. A medley of red berry fruits, sarsaparilla and red licorice greets the nose, which flows to a medium-bodied palate of similar red fruit flavours and a touch of earthy complexity. Although subdued, the pumice-like tannins leave a positive finish. It’s an absolute bargain. PB

2010 Domaine de la Grenaudiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley (France), A$25
Muscadet, contrary to the expectations its name might create, is not a muscat-flavoured grape variety. It is one of the world’s best white wines for seafood. Its neutrality of flavour, crisp acid bite, seaside brine aroma and chalky mineral tang are responsible for that. It is light-bodied, quite modest in alcohol, and has a pronounced yeast-lees aroma and flavour from extended lees contact. This is a well-made rendition of muscadet, and yes, it’s great with raw or cold seafood. HH

2007 Bodegas Enguera Angelical, Valencia (Spain), NZ$25
Established in 1999, the winery only uses estate-grown fruit from its own 160-hectares of vineyards in the southwest of Valencia. This wine is a blend of syrah (40 per cent), monastrell (30 per cent) and tempranillo (30 per cent). It was aged for 12 months in “European” oak although the influence of oak is relatively subtle. The wine is soft-textured and almost juicy with rich, ripe dark berry and dried fruit flavours together with an attractive violet influence that is particularly evident on the aroma. BC

2010 Pierre Amadieu Roulepierre Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (France), A$25
There’s exceptional value from this precisely crafted, finely structured, spicy and charmingly flavoured Southern Rhône red. It’s alluringly scented with a faintly confiture-like perfume of sweet black, blue and red berries and plum, lifted by nuances of licorice, and cloves. Medium in weight; long, fine and dusty, it’s very elegant, measured and vibrant, becoming more meaty, savoury and complex towards its lingering finish of ripened fruit and lively acids. JO

Imports $25 and over
2008 Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra Verdicchio, Marche (Italy), A$25
This stylish and satisfying white comes from a region in Italy that is home to one of the longest wine names in the country – Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore. We only need to concern ourselves with the ‘verdicchio’ bit: this is one of my fave Italian white grapes because it seems to combine the citrus and honeysuckle perfume of a marsanne with the mouthfilling weight of a top chardonnay and the mineral twang of a grüner veltliner. Very complex. MA

2008 Ornellaia Le Volte, Tuscany (Italy), A$35
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia became famous as producer of one of the first of the Super Tuscans (a cabernet merlot known as Ornellaia). Le Volte is a blend of sangiovese (50 per cent), merlot (40 per cent) and cabernet (10 per cent) which is fermented in stainless steel before being aged for 10 months in old barriques that have been used for Ornellaia. The 2008 Le Volte has softness and generosity, and is silky smooth, with lively sour-plum and maraschino-cherry flavours balanced by supple, moderate tannins. PF

NV Larmandier-Bernier Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, Vertus (France), A$85
Larmandier-Bernier has 15 hectares under vine – mostly in the premier-cru village of Vertus. This pure chardonnay is based on 2007 with 40 per cent reserve (still) wine from previous vintages and disgorged with a minimal dosage of four grams. Fresh lime peel and orange blossom aromas interplay with a chalky, mineral background. Tight and well-focused, it opens up to reveal a generous personality with a vital core of acidity to drive the finish. PB

2010 Salomon Undhof Grüner Veltliner Wieden & Berg Tradition, Kremstal (Austria), A$35
Grüner veltliner can at first glance seem like just another light, somewhat plain dry white wine, but it is one of the world’s best food wines. Its home is Austria, the finest produced in the Wachau and Kremstal regions near Vienna. The colour is pale, the aromas are of fresh herbs with white pepper and cucumber notes, while the palate is soft and round with a clean, dry finish. It’s had enough time in the bottle to be mellow and ready to drink, perhaps with ceviche. HH

2002 Charles Gardet Prestige Champagne, Champagne (France), NZ$90
This was my pick of the entire Gardet range tasted recently, although it is fair to say that every wine impressed. A blend of 70 per cent chardonnay (grand and premier cru) with premier-cru pinot noir. It spent a lengthy eight years en tirage and received a dosage of eight grams per litre. It’s an elegant wine that achieves a good balance between the taut and toasty chardonnay influence and richer character from pinot noir. Surprisingly youthful, but with rather mellow texture. BC

2008 Chehalem Ridgecrest Vineyard Pinot Noir, Newberg (US), A$84
A gentle, long and supple New World pinot with a typically perfumed, faintly confectionary scent of raspberry, red apple skins, cherry, rose petals and restrained oak. It dances lightly down the palate, with a vibrant, but reserved expression of sweetly ripened fruit with fine, loose-knit tannins. It finishes with pleasing length, complexity and savoury qualities. JO

Wines to cellar
2010 Syrahmi Mourvèdre, Heathcote, A$42
A good indication of whether a wine is going to improve in the cellar is if it drinks well for a few days after the bottle has been opened. I enjoyed this spicy, earthy, medium-bodied mourvèdre, made by Adam Foster using fruit from the Greenstone vineyard, for a week, going back again and again and having a sip, waiting for it to fall over (I finished it before it got a chance to). This makes me think it’ll live and improve in the bottle for at least a decade, perhaps more. MA

2008 Kalleske Eduard Shiraz, Barossa Valley, A$85
Named for the Kalleske patriarch who, with his wife Rosina, established the family’s presence in the Barossa Valley in 1853. It’s an old-vine shiraz from three organic vineyards (planted between 1905 and 1960) on the Kalleske estate. The 2008 Eduard is ultra-dense and powerful, has floral aromatics, layer upon layer of ripe blackberry, mulberry and dark chocolate flavours, a plush fleshy texture and substantial yet fine slinky tannins. Will improve over the next five years and, if cellared well, will be at its peak in 10. PF

2010 Yering Station Reserve Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, A$90
Willy Lunn has now settled into his chief winemaking role at Yering Station, after a 25-year career with Petaluma, Shaw and Smith and Argyle in Oregon. Lunn’s first Reserve Pinot Noir is an elegant, refined, gently persuasive wine – unforced yet showing incredible depth and length. Soft red berry fruits and violet-like perfumes are to the fore with hints of brambles and fresh undergrowth adding complexity. Silky smooth, deep and long – this graceful beauty has a big future. PB

2009 Spinifex Indigene Shiraz Mataro, Barossa Valley, A$55
Mataro is a somewhat forgotten grape that is being re-discovered in the Barossa of late. It can add a lot of personality to grenache and shiraz. The colour is deep red-purple and the aromas are of intense mineral ironstone and spicy notes, as well as dark fruits. It’s soft, lush, round and smooth in the mouth, long and succulent: a lovely wine indeed, with generous supple tannins. It can be enjoyed now but will give pleasure at least till 2025, building character as it ages. HH

2010 Te Whau Syrah, Waiheke Island, NZ$95
Te Whau is a small wine producer on Waiheke Island with a heroic hillside vineyard that’s so steep it requires nerves of steel to negotiate. A recent vertical tasting of their wines revealed an ability for the best to grow old gracefully. This is a rich, powerful and spicy syrah with strong plum, berry, cracked black pepper, licorice and anise flavours. It’s the most impressive Te Whau syrah I’ve tasted, hardly surprising when you consider that 2010 is regarded by many winemakers as the island’s best-ever vintage. BC

2008 Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet Malbec, Swan Valley, A$110
An especially stylish, fine-grained and elegant expression of the Jack Mann style scented with sweet red cherry, berries, cassis and plum backed by finely integrated chocolate and cedary oak, and lifted by aromas of rose petals and violets. It’s plump, juicy expression of intense black and red berry fruit knits seamlessly with polished oak and smooth, silky tannins, finishing with a lingering core of flavour. Give it at least a decade. JO