For more than a century, the world-weary have trekked to Daylesford to rejuvenate themselves in the mineral-rich waters that bubble up through the area’s springs.

But these are not the only restorative and life-affirming fluids that flow through Daylesford, with wine lovers often putting their faith in the healing properties of the Lake House wine list.

Sommelier James Bone oversees a list that celebrates the restaurant’s location, surrounded by wine regions – namely Heathcote, Macedon and the Pyrenees – but also explores every corner of the global wine world for its thrills.

An extensive and thoughtful range of wines on the pour gives diners the option of 60ml or 150ml tastes and, at the time of judging, offered aged riesling, lagrein and cortese among more conventional choices.

A good selection of half-bottles is to be applauded and a there’s also a phalanx of reds in magnum.

Primacy of produce has always been a feature of the Lake House, and the list reflects this with a section called Menu Marriages, where key ingredients such as duck, rabbit, beetroot or citrus are paired with recommended wines.

Biodynamic and organic wines are another feature of the list, with quality rather than tokenism clearly the criterion for selection.

This is an outstanding list, perfectly tailored to a country restaurant. Its many temptations will have you wanting to stay the night in the luxurious resort accomodation attached and come back the next day to plunder it some more.

Lake House, King St, Daylesford, Vic, (03) 5348 3329, www.lakehouse.com.au.

TEXT NICK RYAN

This article appeared in the August/September 2008 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.