Best New List, The Tony Hitchin Award: Berowra Waters Inn, Berowra Waters

The return of a rejuvenated Berowra Waters Inn in November last year was enough to bring a tear to the eye of any serious foodie. Wine lovers will also feel as though they never left the place when they pore over the stunning wine list, winner of this year’s Tony Hitchin Best New List Award.

But what’s this? Where are the miles and miles of French wines, the Burgundies and the Champagnes? Well, this time round the Berowra Waters Inn is concentrating mainly on Australian wines – the choice of chef Dietmar Sawyere and his assistant manager/sommelier Laiana Ryan.

“I love drinking international wines,” Ryan says, “but sometimes you can be too busy looking elsewhere instead of looking in your own backyard. It’s a challenge, but we’ve been happy with the response so far.”

This is a list that honours the old and new masters of Australian winemaking. There’s Hill of Grace (from 1992) and Grange (from 1978), Wynns John Riddoch and Mount Mary alongside a new band of heroes such as Grosset, Parker Estate and Howard Park. The wines of the Hunter Valley hold a special place here too.

Some wine lists appear old and dusty. Berowra Waters Inn pays attention to the fresh, savoury tastes of today and matches them with modern Riojas, malbec from Argentina, rustic reds from Tuscany and new-age New Zealand merlot. Burgundy lovers need not despair. The list isn’t as comprehensive as it was during the Inn’s heyday, but it will still please the fussiest drinker.

The judges made glowing comments about the wine list, making special mention of the synergy between it and Sawyere’s food.  
 
Berowra Waters Inn, Via East or West Public Wharves, Berowra Waters, NSW, (02) 9456 1027, www.berowrawatersinn.com.

TEXT JENI PORT

This article appeared in the August/September 2008 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.