Best Regional List: Pilu at Freshwater, Freshwater

Australia has numerous great regional wine lists, including the dedicated Tasmanian list of Grape, the Healesville Hotel’s broad Yarra collection, Il Bàcaro’s brilliantly compiled Italian list, Appellation’s plethora of the Barossa’s finest and Vin Cellar’s comprehensive Burgundy selection.
 
And now sommelier Lara Caraturo’s beautifully presented collection of Sardinian wines complements the regional cuisine of chef/owner Giovanni Pilu. It’s a modest, focused compilation of less than 50 of the island’s wines, yet every style is there: aperitif, sparkling, white, red and sweet wine, and a wide range of varietals including a particularly good range of Sardinia’s best known, vermentino. The list is supported by pithy and apposite commentary that places the wines in each section in context and provides information on how they taste. Where appropriate, additional information is given about the varieties found in the blends. Most of the wines are modestly priced yet, as with the best lists, there are also some expensive wines available.
 
Pilu’s list has depth and breadth in wines from both Italy and Australia, with excitement galore in the 28 Italian wines by the glass. The range of wines from the south of Italy is more extensive than is commonly seen in this country – a list with 10 Italian bubblies is rare indeed. The Australian selection, while catering to most tastes, also includes a wide choice of Italian varieties grown here, such as Dal Zotto prosecco, Coriole fiano, Pizzini Rosetta from sangiovese, Mac Forbes barbera and Freeman rondinella corvina.

This superb list reaches its peak when the Sardinian wines are placed alongside Pilu’s regional food.

Pilu at Freshwater, Moore Rd, Freshwater, NSW, (02) 9938 3331, www.piluatfreshwater.com.au.

TEXT PETER FORRESTAL

This article appeared in the August/September 2008 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.