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Best Restaurant List: Taxi Dining Room, Melbourne

We went in search of a wine list, and not just any wine list, one that showed originality in its choice of wines, contained some rare ones and some unusual ones, as well as those of impeccable quality.

We searched for a list that was balanced, paid attention to the synergy between food and wine and was fairly priced. It didn’t have to be the biggest to qualify, but it did have to shine. It had to make the hairs on your neck rise and your tastebuds stand to attention.

More than two months and 300 Australian wine lists later we found what we were after at Taxi Dining Room in Melbourne.

Taxi was a clear and unanimous overall winner in the eyes of the judges in this year’s Fine Wine Partners/Gourmet Traveller WINE Australian Wine List of the Year Award.

International judge and UK wine writer Robert Joseph considered the Taxi wine list “eclectic” and “impeccably thought out”.

His comments were echoed by fellow judge and New Zealand master sommelier Cameron Douglas, who praised the list’s “clear, succinct, rational” intent and delivery.

Sydney-based wine auctioneer Andrew Caillard MW was blunt and to the point: “This is a thoughtful catholic list that realises that not everyone is a rich bastard or a WASP.”

So, what is it that’s so great about this list?

Taxi is described as a hybrid of Japanese/British/modern Australian food ideas – a more disparate and challenging cuisine we can’t imagine for a sommelier. But open the Taxi wine list and be prepared to be blown away. Your aperitif might be a 15-year-old Malmsey, a Tateyama umeshu (plum wine) or perhaps a more traditional rosé Champagne by the glass. Japanese sake is also a feature of this daring international list, with four pages devoted to getting to know – perhaps in a sake flight – the many styles now available.

This is a restaurant list full of comfort wines (we can’t fault the mix of boutique and great Champagne houses featured alongside Australian bubblies) as well as new styles to explore. You’ll find the latest imports from Germany, Alsace and Austria next to upcoming Italians and Spaniards. With this list, the sommeliers acknowledge that wine – like food – is constantly evolving. That said, if an Australian wine list wishes to be taken seriously it has to stand on a solid bedrock of Old World (France) and New World (Australia). Taxi Dining Room meets that challenge too. Its selection of Burgundies – from village through to grand cru – is utterly delectable. Our judges were impressed that multiple vintages are available from top producers such as Bonneau du Martray, Grivot and Meo-Camuzet. The wines of the Rhône Valley and Bordeaux are no less acknowledged.

A real cross-section of Australian wines and regions are represented, not just the main players that dominate so many lists today. Of course, some wine lovers won’t be able to pass the first page of the 40-page list that is devoted to wines by the glass, a taste-capsule of 28 international styles.

Built from the ground up with thought and attention to detail, the Taxi wine list ticks all the boxes: balance of styles, varieties and vintages across all price points. The sommelier team, led by Lincoln Riley, is to be congratulated.

Taxi, Level 1, Transport Hotel, Federation Sq, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9654 8808,
www.transporthotel.com.au.

TEXT JENI PORT

This article appeared in the August/September 2008 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.