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Billy Kwong

It’s difficult to work up an appetite at 6pm – a shame because this is when you’ll be seated if you don’t want to wait for a table at this cult Chinese eating house, famed as much for its no-bookings policy as for its commitment to biodynamic produce. It’s a difficult time of day to manage a banquet, for example – especially unfortunate as the $95 menu here is the best way to experience the full range of Kylie Kwong’s Cantonese signature creations. Instead, for the best bang for your buck, pick whatever’s acting as a vehicle for the house’s spectacularly tangy XO sauce, or plump chicken livers and onions. Dishes are generous so be careful not to overorder or waste precious stomach space on pedestrian steamed greens, as the tiny, cramped space (and its uncomfortable three-legged stools) doesn’t leave you much room to expand.