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Biota Dining

Bold enough in its ambitions for its name to ring out in the capitals, but grounded enough to retain a sense of place, Biota is, in many respects, the restaurant the Southern Highlands has been waiting for. The lounge bar area offers deft takes on small-plate classics – smoky croquetas, vine-smoked al almonds, exceptionally juicy wagyu burgers– while in the restaurant-proper, it’s a bit more Royal Mail/Noma with sublime ribbons of juniper-cured duck at play with slow-cooked duck egg, the crunch of roasted buckwheat and puffed wild rice and a cauliflower foam. Desserts, such as a eucalyptus-tinged quince, rhubarb and cucumber number, reach even further. Both options, though, benefit mightily from the pickings of the kitchen garden, friendly service, a punchy, intelligent drinks list, and a comfortably modern setting. Kudos to chefs Viles and Quade for dreaming big.