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Bistro Guillaume

When is a bistro not a bistro? When it’s run by Sydney identity and stellar chef Guillaume Brahimi, perhaps. When it has a multimillion dollar fit-out, maybe. When the wine list runs into the territory of rare (fabulously priced) Bordeaux, surely. When the service is as sharp as a tack. Bistro Guillaume is not the picture most of us attach to the bistro concept, yet there’s an ease and familiarity about the newest restaurant at Crown. Then there’s the collection of timeless dishes rendered superbly by Brahimi’s Melbourne team: crudités that give new meaning to cold vegetables; oysters of rare quality with buttered sourdough and shallot vinaigrette; a sweet-savoury onion soup of power and balance; perfect steak tartare and duck confit. Finish with one of the legendary Philippa Sibley’s amazing sweet creations. Classic stuff, all of it. And the prices are reasonable, as long as you watch what you’re drinking.