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Bistro Moncur

Constancy can be a winning asset and no one does it better than the team at Bistro Moncur, now under Tom Walton. The striking Michael Fitzjames mural sets the scene for glam bag-toting urbanites out for smart, fast French fare. Signature crab omelettes, house-cured salmon and savoury soufflés sustain, as do à point steaks, anointed with trad butters and frites. Walton delivers sophisticated comfort food with flair rather than flamboyance, with the odd overly complicated display leaning towards errant nationalism. Does the exemplary crisp-skinned ocean trout need a side of blue swimmer crab salad; the saltbush lamb rump a bed of gnocchi? If you're looking for affordable chic, opt for the plat du jour and a glass of wine, the latter plucked from the respectably balanced Aussie/Gallic list. Indulge in excellent desserts with a sticky, marvelling that some culinary stalwarts stay comfortingly the same.