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Bodega

You could be forgiven for thinking that the party had moved on with original chefs and co-owners Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz when they opened the much bigger Porteño in 2010. But a glance at the queues for tables at opening time or the pretty young things packing the fringe of the open kitchen tells you it just ain’t so. The blasting music and big-flavoured neo-Latin tapas that first made Bodega are still rockin’. The signature raw kingfish on charry toast covered with a confetti of cuttlefish and onion sits side by side with more recent additions along the lines of house-made butifarra sausage with a “perfect” fried egg and crunchy pork scratchings. Service is no less young and punchy, while chocolate terrine with fig, cava jelly and yoghurt ice-cream makes it clear that chefs Nic Wong and Joel Humphrey keep the freak-flag flying right up to dessert.