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Buon Ricordo

You can spot the regulars, legion and loyal, at this landmark. They’re the ones ordering with their menus closed, bantering with the dapper waiters and sommeliers, constructing leisurely meals of multiple entrées, shared main courses and big-name Italian vintages. Some light, crisp fried calzoni stuffed with ricotta, provola and strips of intense salami, say, or lush burrata (mozzarella’s creamier cousin) with a sugar-cured tomato topped with basil, or mezzani con scorfano, short tubes of pasta in a rock cod, tomato and garlic sauce. Mains are plain – a T-bone, sliced and dressed with garlic and balsamic on a bed of rocket, or southern-style snapper fillets with eggplant, olives and pine nuts – and that simplicity can border on mundane unless the cooking is bang on point. Popular with big wheels, Buon Ricordo’s prices can verge on worrying, but all that old-school charm sets many minds at ease.