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Circa, the Prince

A DJ sits at his deck, lost in his headphones. The long, sleek bar holds cocktails, Pol Roger bottles and an animated crowd, while the covered courtyard has the same gregarious vibe. All this effortless St Kilda ebullience belies the excellence of the food. A slippery raviolo disc dense with slow-roasted rabbit is swathed in a foaming milk sauce. Another starter of yellowfin tuna tartare is accessorised by crisp-fried oyster jewels and sharpened by shards of radish. A delicately smoked duck breast with pastry-encased duck confit, or tender fillets of Plains Paddocks lamb classically partnered with peas, bacon and wilted lettuce, exemplify the smart main courses. The weighty, Frenchaccented wine list includes nine vintages of Château d’Yquem, a suitably luxurious tipple to accompany desserts such as tapioca and apple pudding, anise pears and prune and Armagnac ice-cream.