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Circa, the Prince

Despite a tumultuous time of chef and ownership shuffles (including the departure of chef Andrew McConnell and pastry maestro Philippa Sibley), Circa continues to impress. St Kilda’s reigning glamour queen has sturdy foundations – a gracefully airy dining room, wine service and wine list that remain at benchmark quality and a kitchen committed to excellent, interesting ingredients – that see it cruising along steadily. Service can be frustratingly erratic but Matthew Wilkinson’s cooking is skilled and detail-focused. Butter-poached marron with parmesan custard and shaved cuttlefish, and the pot-roasted rabbit teamed with white anchovies deliver on looks and flavour. Desserts, however, such as a coconut custard with a jam doughnut, lack the deft touch for which Circa is renowned. Still a great room for romantics and those looking for the Big Night Out, Circa is keeping its chin up.