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Claude's

There’s new punch in the Claude’s menu. A crunchy cracker made with the same pastry used by dim sum masters for crisp taro dumplings, topped with cubes of fine chicken liver parfait, turmericgilded achar pickles and tapioca pearls, is just one winning example of how chef Chui Lee Luk is finding synergies with her Malaysian heritage and French training. Prices have come down and the lights have come up, though it must be said that the small rooms of the terrace are still a bit hushed and haughty. The new soundtrack, laden with Björk and Arcade Fire tunes, is more teen-bedroom than restaurant-chic, and serving an otherwise interesting course of ink-blackened wagyu oyster blade cooler than tepid is more puzzling than stimulating. A deeply caramel parfait topped with slippery young coconut and puffed rice, though, makes sense on every level.