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Coda

In the hands of a less assured chef and a less confident team on the floor, Coda’s menu-mix of tangy Asian and rustic European dishes might jar. It’s a testament to the skill of everyone involved, then, that flitting from a startlingly fresh mouthful of betel-wrapped spanner crab, pomelo, roasted chilli and lime to a chunk of classic rabbit terrine with cornichons on sourdough and then back to a magnificent bowl of kung pao chicken in a dense, hot soy-based sauce not only works, but works brilliantly. The attentive staff encourage diners to explore and share in this way, and diners seem only too happy to go along for the ride. You could easily lose half a day at this buzzy basement, letting lunch flow into dinner, grazing through the menu and delving into the delights of the particularly well-chosen and adventurous wine list.