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Comme Kitchen

Beauty begets beauty at this chic laneway bistro where catwalk-ready staff attend to an equally glamorous clientele. While the grand marble bar and elegant salon of a dining room provide the style, modern French smarts deliver the substance. A meticulously plated Niçoiseinspired salad with a generous rectangle of slow-cooked yellowfin tuna shows restraint, while breaded snails, micro-herbs and a parsley purée tastefully update Burgundian escargots. Mains are played straighter, certainly in juicy char-grilled Gippsland rabbit with a bacon and frisée salad, although overcooked flathead with lettuce velouté and goujons isn’t of a standard befitting a restaurant this highbrow. Another odd accompaniment, cream cheese ice-cream, wipes some of the lustre from a joyous blood orange soufflé, but taken as a whole – including a cellar peppered with aged goodies – Comme still rises to the occasion.