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Cumulus Inc.

Time and again diners are thrilled by how everything at this dashing casual “eating house” surpasses expectation. The mantra here has always been the flexibility to cater equally to the diner who walks in for a Martini and a single (excellent) oyster or a nine-course DIY dégustation, for breakfast or a nightcap. The tuna tartare – served on peas cut with mint, spring onion and goat’s curd, and artfully garnished with garlic-chive flowers – is a lesson in bright, refreshing flavours. And the mustard-crumbed pig’s tail is perhaps a better balanced dish now than it was last year: instead of equally flavour-laden garlic snails, it’s now allied with a white cabbage and apple salad that cuts through the richness. Pillowy lemon curd-filled madeleines are a fine way to close an experience that impresses with its intelligence and execution. This cloud certainly computes..