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Dandelion

Geoff Lindsay’s first venture post-Pearl sees him focusing on the flavours of Vietnam in a smartly fitted-out shopfront in Elwood. The handsome, clean-lined room, all bare-timber surfaces and subtle Asian touches with an open kitchen at the back, chimes with Lindsay’s approach to Vietnamese food – a respectful, modern-Australian reworking of authentic flavours. So you might find a fragrant pho with floating slivers of waygu sirloin alongside a less traditional soft-shell crab and avocado rice paper roll presented, maki roll-style, sliced and sitting upright on a board. There’s meat from the coconut grill (the spare ribs with lychee and mint salad are unmissable), salads which include a nicely fiery version of a Vietnamese chicken ‘slaw and clever sweet things such as the caramelised banana cake. A short, sharp wine list and switched-on service help seal a very pleasing deal.