REVIEW
This contemporary riverside venue sits on the first floor of a repurposed power station turned performance hub, and delivers much more than its nominal bar status might imply. Sure, there’s ample appeal for drinkers – the bar area floods with theatregoers at interval time and a clipped, aptly Italian-leaning wine list consistently engages. But it’s the brightly lit open kitchen that provides the biggest spark of interest. Salty pork belly and slices of slow-cooked fennel come sandwiched between layers of chickpea fritters with a zesty salsa verde, typifying the cliché-free, flavour-forward policy in play. Pasta is another forte – try curly edged gigli, loaded with sugo, roast duck, radicchio and Asiago, say, or pappardelle with goat ragù. The industrial-chic décor makes acoustics challenging, but the biscotti or chocolate zabaglione ice-cream with white chocolate granita and raspberries will give your visit an applause-worthy finish.
Phone:
(07) 3358 1063
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Outdoor dining
Private room
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Sajith Vengateri
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.