Alan Benson
REVIEW
There are plenty of MoVidas – Aqui in Melbourne’s law district, a café at Sydney Airport and three in graffiti-slathered, tourist-packed Hosier Lane, including the newest offspring, Bar Tini. They all have their charms, but it’s the original establishment that’s hard to beat. The space is ageing well, all timber and terracotta with a blackboard dessert menu above the kitchen pass. The playlist makes easy listening. And the staff, a humorous troupe of professionals, is efficient even when the room is pumping, which it often is. The crowd is here for the meat-heavy menu, the source of old favourites – the anchovy and tomato sorbet tapa is one for the ages, as is the swimmer crab tortilla – and daily specials, perhaps a powerful combo of calamari, chickpeas, spicy sausage and squid ink or Goolwa pipis tossed with seaweed and fennel. They’re here for the wine, too. MoVida’s list is, not surprisingly, Spanish- leaning and waves the flag for much of the good, small-producer stuff from that part of the world and includes a short, strong list of sherry. Finish with churros or flan. Perfecto.
Phone:
(03) 9663 3038
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Frank Camorra & Ewen Crawford
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
