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Divido

No one in Perth does Italian like Divido, a modern trattoria that’s more now than nonna behind its unassuming façade. Jason Jujnovich is at his best when cooking uncomplicated food aimed straight for the jugular. Honey-cured trout is as much about the sharpness of cucumber pickle and the rich smoked paprika aïoli as it is the silken fish and dainty boiled quail eggs. A fried zucchini flower on a bed of creamy, garlicky spanner crab screams new-school fish and chips. Rustic handmade pasta always pleases (although some sauces are more successful than others), while the woodfired oven and its predominantly meaty issue remain popular. Desserts provide a satisfying close, from fork-stopping chocolate cake to ricotta and apricot tart sexed up by mascarpone ice-cream. Affable service and thoughtful wine choices round out this casual, high-energy package.