Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller for your chance to win a $20,000 Flight Centre gift card! Offer ends 24 May 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

OzHarvest opens Australia's first free supermarket

"This is about dignity. This is about anyone walking through this door, taking what they need, and only giving back if they can."

Anzac biscuit desserts

These four desserts have one thing in common – Anzac biscuits.

Six sexy panna cottas

We say si to these six takes on the Italian classic. From coffee and caramel to red wine and figs, panna cotta proves to be a versatile dessert to suit all palettes.

Persian red lentil soup with tahini, beetroot and fried mint

Lentil soup may not sound like the sexiest of dishes, but rest assured, it's a heart-warmer. We've added warming spices and served the soup with a dollop of garlicky tahini. Thin slivers of shaved raw beetroot add earthiness and texture - the beetroot is also excellent simply grated and served piled on top. The poached egg is optional, but highly recommended.

Okonomiyaki with sticky soy pork belly

Blue Nile's Ethiopian eggplant dip

"I'd love the recipe for the eggplant dip the wonderful Fatuma Tikuye serves at Blue Nile in Blacktown." - Helena Rosebery, Annandale, NSW REQUEST A RECIPE To request a recipe, email or write to Fare Exchange, Australian Gourmet Traveller, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001. Please include the restaurant's name and address or business card, as well as your name and address.

Eclair recipes

Here are four spins on the classic French eclair, from Flour & Stone's pillowy choux pastry with salted caramel to a colourful take with strawberry-flecked creme fraiche filling and sprinkled pistachios on top.

Fifty-four thoughts at Noma Mexico

"12. I'm now sitting at Noma with no shoes on. I feel like a toddler in a sandpit."


There's more to gamay than a merry drink-now drop - it's a seriously seductive grape, says Max Allen.

I'm standing in Barry Morey's small underground barrel cellar beneath his house in Beechworth, Victoria, and I'm in heaven. I've just taken a mouthful of ruby-coloured one-year-old wine made from the gamay grapes planted here on his home property almost three decades ago. The wine is full of joy: perfumed and fleshy, redcurrants and strawberries tumbling across the tongue.

Now Morey draws a sample from another barrel and pours the wine into my glass. It's a little darker, less aromatic, with supple but sturdy tannin in the mouth - a crystal-clear expression of the unirrigated gamay vines Morey grows in more gravelly, granitic soil on another property just up the road.

It's fascinating to see the gamay grape here in its youthful, unblended form; the wines from each block will be combined to make the 2013 Sorrenberg Gamay, due for release next year. Morey argues (convincingly) that the fleshiness of the older vineyard combined with the sturdiness of the dry-grown vineyard produces a whole that's greater than the sum of its parts.

It's also a wonderful illustration of the two faces of gamay. On one hand, most wine drinkers have long associated the grape with light, cheap Beaujolais nouveau - a wine that can be fleshy and fun, but is hard to take seriously. On the other, it's a grape responsible for some amazingly complex, intensely structured, even long-lived wines: gamay from the top producers in the 12 "crus" or best subdistricts of the Beaujolais region can be both stunning and seriously good value.

Wines such as Jean Foillard's seductive purple Côte du Puy from Morgon or Jean-Claude Lapalu's deeply earthy, savoury Vieilles Vignes (old vines) wines from Brouilly are every bit as brilliant as the great pinots from more famous appellations in Burgundy to the north, at a fraction of the price.

Gamay's ability to be both serious and seductive in the same glass is perhaps one reason why France's pioneering natural winemakers emerged in the Beaujolais region back in the 1970s and 1980s. Beaujolais vignerons such as Jules Chauvet and Marcel Lapierre have inspired producers from France to New Zealand to make bright, juicy, sulphur-free vins de soif from gamay.

One of the most delicious French examples of the variety made in the natural fashion is from the Loire: Domaine de la Garrelière's Gamay Sans Tra La La, a moreish, gluggable red wine that also manages to be satisfying and soulful. I find a similar sense of satisfaction in the stunning brightness and slippery black cherry of the sulphur-free gamay from Rippon in Central Otago.

Closer to home, gamay is beginning to catch the attention of some of our better, more innovative winemakers. In the Yarra Valley, De Bortoli put the grape to good use in both a single-varietal wine under the Vinoque label, and blended with syrah to delicious effect under the excellent value La Bohème range.

And some of the Australian producers who planted gamay a while ago are making better and better wines each vintage. Rutherglen's Jen Pfeiffer does a splendid job producing one of this country's lightest, juiciest, most refreshing gamays from the Pfeiffer family's warm-climate vineyards. In Gippsland, Phillip Jones's gamay is now often every bit as complex, profound and deeply earthy as his Bass Phillip pinots. David Lloyd at Eldridge Estate has settled into a two-tier approach to gamay: he produces both a gorgeously bright, red-fruity wine called PTG (gamay blended with pinot), and a darker, more dense, textural straight gamay, with all the complexity and depth of a top pinot noir.

Back at Sorrenberg in Beechworth we've emerged from the barrel tasting and sat down to dinner. Morey digs around in the far reaches of his cellar and brings out a couple of older bottles - a 1998 and a 1996 gamay. And they're a revelation: the '98 has settled into a wonderfully savoury groove, with abundant flavours of damp soil, wild mushrooms and soy sauce, while the '96 still has plenty of the grape's fleshy fruit vitality. Both are about as far as it's possible to get from the image of gamay as a simple, drink-now wine.

No wonder people are falling in love with gamay: whether it's tasted straight out of the barrel or after years of bottle slumber, grown in the right spots and vinified by the right hands it's a seriously seductive grape.


Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Where to have a drink this Good Friday
Bar Rochford's Gun Club
Dung: gin’s final frontier
Sydney’s Royal Botanic Garden’s very own gin
The World's Best sommeliers are coming to Australia
Archie Rose’s latest gin is inspired by autumn in Japan
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Jennifer Hawkins Sesion tequila

Tequila is the new black. At least it is for Jennifer Hawkin...

Top drops: March 2017

From a floral bottle of English bubble to a tangy gin perfec...

Australian sour beers

Craft brewing in Australia is hitting a sour note, and that’...

Original Sin's Grande Bellezza

A fresh, bright Italian-accented sundowner.

Short restaurant wine lists

Small is the order of the day in restaurants, with tight win...

Mitch Monaghan, Nespresso

We caught up with Nespresso Australia and New Zealand coffee...

Signature Drink: The Baxter Inn’s Charlestown

Grab the mink and the fedora – this Baxter cocktail means bu...

Game up your G&Ts with a Distiller’s Strength Gin

Is this the year of gin going where no botanicals have gone ...

Signature drinks

Thirty of our favourite drinks from Australia's best bars an...

Hot 100 2015 - Drinks

The world is getting hotter and we’re not talking about glob...

Mover, shaker

The best thing you can take to a party, according to cocktai...

How to improve your wine-tasting ability

Drinking wine is more than a matter of taste, writes Max All...

Best Australian red wines for drinking now

Australians are getting a taste for thirst-quenching reds ma...

Best Australian gins

The local gin craze is in full swing. Max Allen taste-tests ...

The art of the cocktail list

In our inaugural Cocktail List of the Year awards, GT cockta...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.