Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller before 25th June, 2017 and receive a Laguiole cheese knife set!

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Chorizo recipes

Where would Spanish cuisine be without the chorizo? This versatile smallgood lends its big flavours to South American stews, soups, and salads, not to mention the ultimate hot dog. Let the sizzling begin.

2017 Australian Hotel Awards: The Finalists

This year's finalists across 11 different categories include established and new hotels, all with particular areas of excellence. Stay tuned to find out which hotels will take the top spots when they're announced at a ceremony at QT Melbourne on Wednesday 24 May, and published in our 2017 Australian Hotel Guide, on sale Thursday 25 May.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Hunter Valley NSW travel guide

Our guide to the best of the region.

Pea and ham soup

Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Turning spit into brandy

The team at Poor Toms

The team at Poor Toms

Upcycling wine from spit buckets into brandy? Only at Rootstock.

Grappa di Saliva. Grape Expectorations. Eau de Crachoir. The Spitting Image. Marc de Ptooey. When you're trying to come up with names for a spirit made from wine salvaged from spit buckets, inspiration is never far from hand. Nor are strong opinions. Even the drinkers who know in their rational minds that the distilling process leaves impurities in the bottom of the still, and that alcohol is a very effective antibacterial agent profess a certain unease about the idea. But that's all part of its magic - and it's all very Rootstock.

This year the Sydney artisanal wine festival ramps up its waste-fighting bona fides with a pledge to take the wine from its spit buckets (that is, for the uninitiated, the receptacles into which wine that has been swirled around the mouths of tasters has been spat) and ends of bottles and distil it. Brandy, after all, is simply distilled wine, and distilling is, apart from a way of making alcohol, one of the oldest and most reliable purification processes known to man.

The idea - and it might even be a world first - grew out of a conversation in a session at Rootstock in 2015 that was all about artisanal distilling. Hosted by your correspondent, its speakers were French eau-de-vie producer-to-the-stars Laurent Cazottes and Peter Bignell, owner of Tasmania's innovative Belgrove Distillery. At Belgrove, Bignell heats his water, runs his truck and forklift and fires his still with biodiesel made from cooking oil from the roadhouse next door. He grows his own rye corn and collects water from his shed roofs. "The only significant material I bring to the farm is waste cooking oil and the only product to leave is whiskey," he says.

Bignell has taken bread and food waste left over from other events and transformed them into vodka, and so when talk turned to the idea of finding a way to put the waste products from the festival to better use, he was all for it. In organising this year's festival, Rootstock's directors (former GTSommelier of the Year Giorgio De Maria among them) turned to Marrickville gin distillers Poor Toms to simplify logistics and cut down on spit miles.

"Giorgio said to us 'I've got this crazy idea. Would you be interested? I think a lot of people are going to be disgusted by it,'" says Poor Toms co-owner Griffin Blumer. "But he also said 'I think it's going to be a really cool story and people are going to really get behind it, and hopefully it'll teach us all something not just about recycling but about alcohol and what goes into sprits,' and creating stories is what we're about at Poor Toms. Our gin is storytelling for us, so we wanted to get involved."

Poor Toms' Müller still, Blumer says, was designed specifically to help farmers and small operators to turn their fruit and farinaceous crops into brandy, so it's an easy (ish) leap from there to upcycling wine.

How much wine? "I'm not sure exactly, because a lot of Rootstock visitors prefer to swallow," says De Maria, but by his conservative estimate, the festival's 65 producers open an average of 60 bottles of wine over two days, making for more than 3,400 litres of wine poured. "So it'll be a lot of spit."

From that, Blumer and fellow Poor Toms founder Jesse Kennedy hope to salvage 200 litres of wine a day. They'll let it settle overnight in a coolroom, and then distil it the following morning. They're expecting a yield of around 20 litres of nearly pure alcohol from each run.

Some of that spirit will go into oak barrels to age, like brandy, and some will go into stainless steel, and will more closely resemble a grappa or marc. From there its final destination will be cocktails at Rootstock 2017, and a special reserve barrel, which will be auctioned to raise money for Gurandji Munjie, one of the charities supported by Rootstock.

We asked Tim Philips, co-owner of acclaimed Sydney bars Bulletin Place and Dead Ringer, for an idea of how such a singular spirit might best be deployed. "Besides being a post-dinner sipper, grappa works as seasoning in more austere stirred cocktails," he says. "Replacing the Scotch in an Affinity for example. Long story short, I'd love to get my hands on some."  

Are there any health concerns about the brandy? "In the final cut that we have?" says Blumer. "No. The still boils the wine, then the alcohol comes off before the spit or water, and you can't distil viruses or bacteria. And beyondthat, alcohol is an antibacterial agent itself anyway. That aspect of it is the first thing that intrigued me, though - it's still an unsettling thought."

And the taste? "I have no idea what to expect," says De Maria. Brandy isn't usually made from finished table wines, let alone wine made by producers of the calibre of Philippe Bornard, Jean-Jacques Morel, Olek Bondonio, Vanya Cullen and Taras Ochota. And it also hasn't usually been pre-slurped by impassioned festival-goers. It's anybody's game.

"Don't tell the French I said this, but the stuff in the barrel might be a bit like Cognac," De Maria says. "Only with the saliva twist that gives it its Rootstock terroir."

Rootstock Sydney, Saturday 26 to Sunday 27 November, Carriageworks, 245 Wilson St, Eveleigh, NSW, rootstocksydney.com

Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Bloody Shiraz Gin is back with a 2017 vintage
26.05.2017
Sydney's Neighbourhood cafe is giving away free coffee
11.05.2017
Where to have a drink this Good Friday
13.04.2017
Bar Rochford's Gun Club
06.04.2017
Dung: gin’s final frontier
31.03.2017
Sydney’s Royal Botanic Garden’s very own gin
30.03.2017
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Whisky Jerx, Sydney

Ben Blair, Reece Griffiths and Lee Potter Cavanagh aren't op...

Handpicked Wines opens a cellar door in Sydney

Acting as an all-encompassing sensory and educational space,...

Seven new Sydney bars opening soon

Fear not, Sydney. Melbourne might have its wine bar crawl so...

Drinks for Dry July at PS40

We head down to Sydney bar PS40 for some tips (and recipes) ...

Signature Drink: The Baxter Inn’s Charlestown

Grab the mink and the fedora – this Baxter cocktail means bu...

Vermouth is having a moment

More and more adventurous local winemakers are embracing Ver...

On the House: Bad Hombres in five drinks

In On the House, the tenders of our favourite bars talk us t...

Pilu’s Cherry Negroni

An improvement on the perfection that is the Negroni? Certai...

Level Six’s Third-Course Fizz

Unlikely bedfellows that they may be, eucalyptus and whisky ...

Black’s Leisure Suit

Taking it easy with a late-spring refresher.

Freda’s Mezcal Margarita

Take your Margaritas to the next level with the smoky citrus...

The Baxter Inn’s Cheever Gibson

The Chekhov of the suburbs, one of the great American master...

The Bar at the End of the Wharf's Big William's Warmer

Lusty, boozy, potent and ever so slightly lewd, it’s a cockt...

The Hazy Rose’s Black Bush Kitty

A nutty, boozy libation fit to do nanna proud.

Popolo’s Bloody Maria

The Bloody Mary takes a southern Italian turn – for the bett...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×