Our October issue is on sale - the Paris special. Grab your copy for all-things Parisian, plus ultimate French baking recipes and more.
Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller before October 24, 2016 and receive 3 BONUS ISSUES - save 46%.
Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad.
Kensington, hold onto your hats.
In a triumph of paddock-to-plate in practice, Paulette Whitney takes her kids to dinner to show them the fruits of their labour.
Sokyo's Chase Kojima's new project is something completely new.
Ben Shewry and David Moyle have big plans for the menu.
Make this summer the season of Michelin-starred grilling, thanks to Heston Blumenthal’s new range of barbecues.
What brings people together more than tequila? Tequila, tacos and cake.
These dozen tales depict divergent lives in food. Swerve from a fast and furious account of a drug-addled line cook, to a fragrant memoir about living and cooking in China.
Meet the game-changing Australian chefs pushing boundaries and challenging food norms.
A pantry staple, noodles are ready in a flash. Here are six different recipes, all ready in under 30 minutes.
Here are 14 fresh takes on these small saltwater clams, from a hearty red mullet bouillabaisse to grilled pancetta scallop canapes and a Vietnamese glass noodle soup.
Here’s what to expect when the international event arrives next April.
A kitchen fire has forced Rosa Mitchell’s Punch Lane restaurant to close permanently.
Sichuan pepper adds a mouth-numbing spice. Here are our favourite ways to use it, from fragrant soups to fried eggplant.
Sokyo's Chase Kojima's new project is something completely new.
Five airports that go all out on luxury design, premium cuisine and first class service. Transit time never looked so good.
Sauvignon blanc has an image problem in fine-wine circles. It's the most popular commercial white wine in Australia. We guzzle an ocean of it every year, mostly in the form of cheap supermarket bottles from Marlborough in New Zealand. But its ubiquity is its undoing: familiarity, for some, has bred contempt.
Snooty wine lovers and sommeliers dismiss the grape's fruity charms, claiming the wines it produces are boring. And as a result you can struggle to find sauvignons in some of our top restaurants. Unless, that is, the wines have been made using unconventional techniques.
The modern mainstream sav blanc - clear, crisp, fruity - relies on safe handling in the winery: clear juice, cultured yeasts, cold fermentation in stainless steel, early bottling, sulphur dioxide preservative additions.
But a growing number of adventurous sauvignon winemakers are doing the opposite: wild fermenting cloudy juice, on skins, in barrel or clay amphorae, ageing before bottling, with little or no sulphur. And the resulting wines are reigniting a passion for it.
"I have quite a few sav blancs on the wine list now, but it's not always obvious that they're sav blancs," says Stuart Knox, owner of Sydney wine bar Fix St James. "I have a sauvignon blanc section for familiar wines, from Marlborough to Sancerre, but I also have skin-contact sauvignons in the 'amber' section, and low- or no-sulphur sauvignons in the 'weird' section."
Knox says savvy is a great grape for back-to-the future techniques because, regardless of how it's made, it retains its distinctive varietal character. "For people who are new to natural or skin-contact wines," he says, "that unmistakable sauvignon flavour is something familiar they can hang on to."
Barrel-fermenting (and ageing) sauvignon is nothing new, of course. Most top French producers from the Loire Valley such as Didier Dagueneau in Pouilly Fumé and Alphonse Mellot in Sancerre do it; oak-aged sauvignons have been sold as "fumé blanc" since the 1970s, and a large number of New Zealand producers have adopted the technique for their reserve wines since Cloudy Bay released its barrel-fermented, lees-aged sauvignon, Te Koko, a decade or so ago.
Indeed, if you are bored by innocuous Marlborough savvy, track down a bottle of Greywacke Wild Sauvignon, or Churton Best End, or Hans Herzog Sur Lie, or Dog Point Section 94. These are complex, multilayered expressions of grape and region.
The trend towards natural winemaking and skin-contact sauvignon, on the other hand, is revolutionary in that it's a radical return to old methods. Leading natural Sancerre producer Sébastien Riffault, for example, claims his low-or-no sulphur, oxidative, savoury wines recall the true flavour of Sancerre back in the early 20th century.
One of the first Australian winemakers to try the radical approach of fermenting sav blanc on skins - like a red wine - was Barossa-based Tom Shobbrook. In 2010, Shobbrook picked some savvy in the Adelaide Hills and wild-fermented the juice on skins for six weeks. The resulting cloudy, yellow, intensely flavoured wine, called Giallo, was a revelation, and inspired others to explore skin-contact white winemaking.
"That first wine came out of a challenge between (winemaker) Anton van Klopper and I to see who could make the most interesting sauvignon blanc," says Shobbrook. "We both picked fruit from the same vineyard on the same day. He made a clean, barrelfermented wine but I started playing with skins to see how far you can go. Luckily it worked, so we kept doing it. And now we're seeing other interesting skin-contact white wines around."
One winemaker inspired by the trend is Brad Wehr, producer of Wine by Brad, Amato Vino and Mantra in Margaret River. In 2015 Wehr made his first skin contact savvy, a refreshing dry white called Skinnydip.
"Skinnydip came about when I didn't have room for a batch of sav blanc grapes in the winery during a hectic vintage," says Wehr. "I had some clay amphorae so I chucked the grapes in to see what would happen. I liked it so much I'm going to make more this year."
Echoing Knox, Wehr says that despite the funk of wild ferment, the savoury grip of skin contact, and the cloudiness of bottling without filtering, he likes that Skinnydip tastes unmistakably of Margaret River savvy.
"I like sauvignon blanc as a variety," he says. "I like to drink it and I'm having fun doing things with it.
Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.
Tequila is the new black. At least it is for Jennifer Hawkin...
Craft brewing in Australia is hitting a sour note, and that’...
A fresh, bright Italian-accented sundowner.
Small is the order of the day in restaurants, with tight win...
We caught up with Nespresso Australia and New Zealand coffee...
A fortifying summer cocktail that’s as portable as it is pot...
Grab the mink and the fedora – this Baxter cocktail means bu...
Is this the year of gin going where no botanicals have gone ...
Thirty of our favourite drinks from Australia's best bars an...
The world is getting hotter and we’re not talking about glob...
The best thing you can take to a party, according to cocktai...
Drinking wine is more than a matter of taste, writes Max All...
Australians are getting a taste for thirst-quenching reds ma...
The local gin craze is in full swing. Max Allen taste-tests ...
In our inaugural Cocktail List of the Year awards, GT cockta...
Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.×