Love, Tilly Devine’s new chapter

Wines at Love, Tilly Devine

Wines at Love, Tilly Devine

The Sydney wine bar has recharged the batteries and pivoted towards local vintners.

Darlinghurst wine bar Love, Tilly Devine is back open for business after a quick refresh of its menu, wine list and look. The same winning formula of the last seven years remains, but the bar has tightened its focus on Australia's blossoming natural wine movement and developed a more local and sustainable food offer.

"We're not trying to reinvent Love, Tilly Devine as much as take it back to the way it was when we first opened," says owner Matt Swieboda.

Swieboda, who opened a second bar, Dear Sainte Éloise, this year, is bringing Éloise partners Nathaniel Hatwell and Jasmin Natterer back to where it all began, with the trio sharing floor duties while Dear Sainte Éloise chef Ben Abiad will add the bar menu at Love, Tilly Devine to his brief.

Buffalo mozzarella, peas and dragoncello sauce.

The bites will be more vegetable-led, with Abiad taking a strong interest in the sustainability of Australia's farming practices, including the resources involved in raising meat.

"We want to prepare food that's easy on the environment in Australia," Swieboda says.

To that end, you'll see the likes of broad beans and roast asparagus dressed with salmoriglio, or a dollop of buffalo mozzarella with peas sitting on dragoncello sauce. The charcuterie comes from Pino's, the bread from Iggy's and the oysters are farmed to order for the bar by Cummins Seafood. Abiad is also experimenting with ferments like celery hearts, onions and chilli, which can be ordered on their own but also show up in the snapper crudo with crisp rye bread.

Cheeses are sourced from producers such as Milawa Cheese and Binnorie Dairy.

The bar now pours mainly Australian wines, and Swieboda is keen to showcase up-and-coming producers he's found during three months of research and sourcing.

"We were the first client for James Erskine [of South Australian winery Jauma] in 2010," Swieboda says. "It's been great seeing people we love and respect progress in their careers and to feel like we're along for the ride."

Expect newcomers such as Yarra Valley maker Ephemera Wines and the Adelaide Hills' Borachio alongside Dormilona, Momento Mori and Manon. International wines are there to provide a point of contrast to the Australian expressions of classic varieties.

Prosciutto, melon and smoked mascarpone

The space itself has had a simple touch-up, with new wallpaper designed by illustrator Adriana Picker featuring on one wall. "It feels like the place I would like to go now that I'm a bit older," Swieboda says.

And for the first time the bar will open on Monday nights.

Love, Tilly might have been a mainstay of Sydney's wine bar scene for the last seven years, but it sounds like it's just getting comfortable. Here's to seven more.

Love, Tilly Devine, 91 Crown La, Darlinghurst, NSW, (02) 9326 9297, lovetillydevine.com; open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight.


Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Four Pillars releases a new batch of its Australian Christmas Gin
03.11.2017
Love, Tilly Devine’s new chapter
26.10.2017
The World's 50 Best Bars 2017
10.10.2017
Seedlip, a non-alcoholic distilled spirit, arrives in Australia
10.10.2017
Bar Americano wants you to buy a stranger a drink
05.09.2017
Jacoby’s, a Twin Peaks-themed tiki bar, opens in Enmore
18.08.2017
The Gourmet Traveller podcast

Each fortnight we round up the most interesting characters from the food world for your listening pleasure. We chat to chefs, cooks, authors, bar tenders and baristas - anyone who has something new and interesting to say about the way we like to eat and drink.

Listen
Recipe collections

Looking for fresh dinner ideas? Not sure how to make the most out of seasonal produce? Or do you need to plan the perfect party menu? Our recipe collections have you covered.

See more

You might also like...

Eau de Vie's bottled bacon Bourbon

Bacon week might be nearly over, but that's no reason to sto...

Whisky Jerx, Sydney

Ben Blair, Reece Griffiths and Lee Potter Cavanagh aren't op...

The Standard opens a bar in Hobart

The city’s favourite burgers now come with drinks.

On the House: Bar Liberty in four drinks

Welcome to our new series On the House, in which the tenders...

Handpicked Wines opens a cellar door in Sydney

Acting as an all-encompassing sensory and educational space,...

Cocktails by the batch

Did the cocktail game just get easier? We look at why more a...

Seven new Sydney bars opening soon

Fear not, Sydney. Melbourne might have its wine bar crawl so...

Drinks for Dry July at PS40

We head down to Sydney bar PS40 for some tips (and recipes) ...

On the House: Bar Rochford in four drinks

In On the House, the tenders of our favourite bars talk us t...

The new wave of whisky

New World whiskies are making a splash with unique flavours ...

On the House: Bad Hombres in five drinks

In On the House, the tenders of our favourite bars talk us t...

This Must be the Place, Sydney

Luke Ashton and Charlie Ainsbury are joining forces to bring...

Bar Exuberante preview

Matt Bax gives us the inside scoop on his new Melbourne bar.

Boilermaker House, Melbourne

A new bar is challenging the way Melbournians take their whi...

The Ugly Duckling, Richmond

Richmond’s newest wine and cocktail bar, The Ugly Duckling, ...