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E'cco

Expect sure-footed bistro fare rather than surprises in E’cco’s lively dining room. Duck and shiitake pie is a case in point: charitably proportioned, glazed and crammed full of flavour. Knowledgeable, long-serving staff attend to diners with practised ease, in a space that’s comfortable (if a bit dated). Speaking of duck, its reappearance among the main courses in the form of Grimaud duck breast is an object lesson in tenderness. It’s fortified with a sticky, mirror-finish port jus. The broad wine list is a document worth reading in detail, traversing New World and Old, with interesting by-the-glass choices from the far-flung likes of Chile and Greece. Coconut and pistachio dacquoise is let down by a bland peach purée, whereas the magnificent hazelnut chocolate tart enriched with mellow caramel and partnered with zingy raspberry ice-cream is far from pedestrian.