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Eleonore’s

Claret-coloured drapes line merlot-hued walls and flames flicker in a castle-sized fireplace, but while Eleonore’s time-warp décor reflects a rich past, the food demonstrates a trend-savvy present. Soils, foams and modern technical flourishes (think fried aïoli and blood-pudding mousse) flow though Mathew Macartney’s menu. Among the entrées, a puck of poached salmon nudges a puddle of warm apple custard topped with Champagne foam, while slow-cooked pigeon fillet lolls on Périgord jus, chestnuts and mushrooms. The food is at its best when local produce is allowed to shine, as it does in a main course of venison with rhubarb and a chocolate-infused sauce. Staff, displaying the same old-fashioned grace as the furnishings, busily push cheese trolleys, ferry desserts such as quince confit with honey ice-cream and usher guests to the drawing room for a digestive tipple.