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Embrasse

Refined, subtle, restrained. These are Embrasse words. It starts in the dining room, a monochromatic blend of hard and upholstered surfaces, linen-draped tables, quality stemware and service that’s sharper and more focused than in the past. The food is prettily plated, strewn with tiny flowers, leaves and herbs, pulling back on the butter/salt/cream clichés of French cuisine, instead displaying an affinity with beautiful vegetables. The signature meli melo, a lovely tumble of shiny steamed vegies, pastes and emulsions, is a poster child for freshly picked produce, while dishes such as lamb rack dramatically coated in deep-purple beetroot dust, confit spatchcock breast teamed with fresh green almonds and sweet/sour cherries, or a mango délice enlivened by punchy finger lime, all demonstrate the kitchen’s artful skills. It’s dining that substitutes instant wow-factor for the slower, subtler reveal.