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Esposito at Toofey's

This may not be the hippest diner on the block, yet its classic looks belie a pomp-free eating experience that’s bang up-to-date. While customer-first waiters keep things on an even keel out front, Maurice Esposito and his focus on ethically fished seafood drive the galley. The chew of slow-cooked octopus plays against airy, whipped smoked trout, while sublime pan-fried flathead with an heirloom tomato and preserved lemon salad speak volumes about provenance. A nod to Esposito’s Italian roots shows in outstanding pasta options such as the dill, nasturtium and Moreton Bay bug open lasagne. The $35 two-course lunch special is miraculous value, although clock-watching office types are advised to find the time and dollars for homely desserts – the spice-rich date tart is a menu mainstay for good reason. A serious focus on wine is the icing on the cake for this quiet achiever.