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Est.

It’s not easy to feel exclusive these days. Cut through the madding crowd of Establishment’s bar, check your name with the clip-boarding staff at the lift and be elevated to a state of rare refinement. Framed by white columns and heavy chandeliers, this dining room befits Peter Doyle’s menu of assured grandeur. Finesse springs from simplicity in steamed coral trout fillet on crab, cucumber and shimeji with a ginger and green onion vinaigrette that zings. Earthy chestnut mushroom and rocket tortellini in a kangaroo tail consommé with porcini pearls (bursting on the tongue) is a delight. Dishes are sashayed to the table with choreographed elegance, but, as with the food, panache never obscures the fundamentals of service. Doyle saves the best till last with a feuillantine of grilled nectarine and pistachio ice-cream with peach sauce and pistachio oil. Exceptional wine seals a very special deal.