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Est.

In one of the most elegant rooms in Sydney, drinking deeply from a wine list equalled by only a handful of rivals in the state, in the care of one of the most thoroughly professional and well-drilled service teams in the nation, it’s perhaps not that much of a surprise to find great food. And yet each meal at Est. provides opportunities to marvel anew at, say, the freshness of ripe persimmon, swatches of jamón, dried black olive, house-made ricotta and witlof on the one hand, or the precisely judged intensity of powerfully beefy Angus shortrib showered in onions (fried and otherwise) over a deeply green-tasting celtuce purée on the other. The lightness of touch and attention to detail the kitchen is renowned for are keenest in dessert, whether it’s a worked, seasonally apt play of strawberries, rhubarb, jelly, sorbet and meringues or a confident soufflé. Bravura stuff.